ChewsWise Blog

ChewsWise Blog

Supermarkets Fail Greenpeace Test on Fish

Greenpeace rated supermarkets for the sustainability of the fish they sell.

All failed.

As Greenpeace explains:

To date, many environmentalists have asked individual consumers toshift their seafood purchases to reduce effects on overexploited species.  These have proved complicated, bewildering and often ineffective. 

By asking supermarkets to take an active role in preserving overfished species, Greenpeace is enlisting the aid of informed seafood professionals whose decisions send strong signal back through the supply chain.

The larger point -- that supermarkets and others should raise their game when it comes to fish - is incontrovertible. If we want to eat fish in the future, we've got to be smarter about the fish we eat now.

But a couple of issues: first, half of all seafood is sold in restaurants rather than at home, and secondly, as Greenpeace points out, there is massive confusion about "red list" fish. Its own list, for example, contains fish that have been certified as sustainable (such as New Zealand hoki and Alaskan pollack) by the Marine Stewardship Council. This only leads consumers to throw up their hands in confusion.

As for the ratings, Whole Foods rated the highest, but it still got a "failing" grade from Greenpeace.

- Samuel Fromartz 

Mackey Interview, Part 2

In the second installment of the interview with John Mackey, CEO of Whole Foods, the focus is on humane meat, sustainable seafood and local food. The first part of the interview can be found here.

Fromartz: There has been a bit of buzz about your humane meat program, which institutes a five-star rating system based on the humane practices of the livestock producers. When will it roll out?

Mackey: We'll roll it out this summer. It got delayed because we were doing it under the Whole Foods-funded Animal Compassion Foundation but we're now shifting it to a third party, the Global Animal Partnership. We think from a credibility standpoint, third party certification is better. Organic is third party, Fair Trade is third party and we think that will have more credibility with our customer base. But this summer, you will start to see the one-through-five rating. (One being the most basic rating and five, the highest, with background here and here).

Fromartz: Have you found enough livestock producers to fill out the meat case? Are there enough grass-based producers, for instance?

Mackey: Well, it's not just for our grass-based producers. All of our meat will be in the program eventually because if they want to sell at Whole Foods, they have to be rated. But if you're asking, have we found that many producers that have the highest ratings, like three, four, and five? The answer is we don’t have enough yet but we think what will happen. As we create more transparency into welfare practices, the desire to have a higher rating is going to kick in. Customers are going to prefer the better ratings, so we're going to see those getting one's and two's try and get three's and four's

Fromartz: Do you expect those with a three or four rating get a premium over the one's and two's?

Mackey: I do. To even get a three, it has to be a pasture-based system, which rules out almost all meat sold in the United States right now. And I don't mean just access to outdoors but a real pasture-based system.

With chickens for example, "free range" is a myth – the birds are not in cages but they are in a big barn. When the consumer thinks of free range, they think the chickens are out running around in pasture but that's not the case. So to get a three under the Global Animal Partnership ratings system, animals will have to live outside and have access to shelter, rather than the other way around - living indoors with supposed access to outdoors. Once there's more transparency and the ratings are out there, the consumer demand is going to be push a lot more producers to get into organic and animal welfare production – they're going to get better scores, a premium and more brand loyalty.

Fromartz: So when are you going to do more in seafood?

Mackey: In terms of sustainability?

Fromartz: You are selling some MSC-certified fish but it's not across the board. (The Marine Stewardship Council certifies whether wild populations of fish are sustainably harvested).

Mackey: We've had quite a few meetings on aquaculture and are coming with standards this summer on farmed fish. That's probably the biggest initiative we've got.

But sustainability in seafood is a huge issue, and I don't have any good answers to it, because world demand for seafood is doing nothing but going up. I think having good aquaculture standards will help. But of course, as you know, demand is very strong for wild caught – and wild caught is hunting and gathering with very efficient technology. It's the tragedy of the commons. I was just looking at our stores in the New York area, and the only certified fish we had was salmon from Alaska and some sea bass. We need a lot more than that.

Fromartz: Yes, in my opinion, your fish case needs the most work.

Mackey: I hear you but is there someone else that's doing more? We're out there working, we're doing monitoring, we've cut off some species. We recently stopped selling orange roughy, and we don't have a lot of species because of sustainability issues. It puts us at a competitive disadvantage against other retailers who do sell those fish.

I think we need someone other than MSC to do sustainability certification, to encourage competition. When we started our Whole Trade label (Whole Food's fair trade designation), we started working with Transfair and Rainforest Alliance. The competition between the two has been intense and that leads to innovation. On the seafood front, there's only one game in town, MSC. We need half a dozen competing to certify sustainable fisheries.

Overall, though, I am very frustrated about it and I don't feel we're going enough. But frankly, I don't know what to do about it.

Fromartz: You've also put a lot of emphasis recently on local foods. Is it growing?

Mackey: I do think it's a fundamental trend, and it's going to grow. But I don't think the locavore movement is going to sweep America.

The simultaneous trend along with local is ethnic and international foods – Asian food, Middle Eastern Food, Mediterranean food. It's not just in the big cities,  there's been a big explosion in different cuisines and that's happening at the same time as local, but they both reflect a growing awareness people have about food. People are looking for authentic artisan food rather than industrial food, or fast food.

Fromartz: Both trends -- imports and local -- are rising?

Mackey: Yes. And there's also whole trade, ethical trade, that's a huge trend that's only going to grow. As Peter Singer said in his book (The Way We Eat: Why Our Food Choices Matter), the local food movement sometimes lacks a perspective on the globe. Developing countries need to sell in other markets and fair trade gives them a premium when they do that.

Fromartz: So fair trade is growing too?

Mackey: Our goal is to have 50 percent of our foods from developing world be ethically traded in the next 10 years. Right now it's substantially less than that.

Fromartz: I know you need to wrap this up, but one last question: Does anything in the business keeping you awake at night?

Mackey: The truth is the last year was a terrible year for me personally and I had plenty of sleepless nights, while I was being investigated. I feel like I've gotten out of jail, with the SEC dropping its inquiry and not recommending any enforcement actions. Symbolically and emotionally, I feel like I've been liberated. That's really how I feel.

We've got some short term concerns. We've got to integrate Wild Oats, we've got some additional competition, we've got a slowdown in some of our comp sales, and we have an economic environment like I've never seen in my 30 years in this business. I've never seen $133 a barrel oil, I've never seen this kind of real estate crash, we got the Iraq war dragging on, we're sort of in turbulent white water and I don't know what rocks lie ahead because I've never been down this river before.

Fromartz: And your stock price is at the lowest since 2003.

Mackey: The stock was definitely overvalued, trading at 60-70 times earnings. It was a bubble and it popped. But I'm looking to get past 2008 and our earnings back on an upward track. I anticipate that happening next year.

Fromartz: Thanks for the time.

Should I Order the Salmon?

FarmedSaturday night, my husband and I decided to check-out a new tapas restaurant near our home. By the time we were seated, our 8-year-old son was famished, and wasn’t shy about letting me know it. A procession of sangrias and small plates arrived -- fried manchego cheese, watercress salad, house cured salt cod, and seared duck breast. But Cal was hankering for fish. Not just any fish -- he wanted the salmon, and kept pointing his small finger to it on the menu, punctuating it with “Please, Mom?”

Last summer we vacationed in Tofino, on the western edge of Vancouver Island in Canada. We hired a guide and spent an afternoon fishing. Cal pulled in a small chinook, and we grilled it that evening for dinner. In his mind, all salmon come from pristine waters that are occupied by spouting grey whales and whiskery sea otters. But when I asked the waitress what kind of salmon it was, she looked puzzled. Apparently, she doesn’t get asked the question. Ever. It took a trip to the kitchen for her to come back with the unsurprising answer: farmed-raised Atlantic salmon.

Let me preface this with this statement: I absolutely know better.

But when a hungry kid is tugging on your t-shirt, it’s hard to explain that farmed-raised salmon is not the same kind of salmon he was dreaming about. So true confession? I gave in, and in a few greedy mouthfuls he had polished the plate, while my own appetite diminished and a load of guilt set in. I tried not to think about the sea lice.

Monday’s op-ed by Taras Grescoe talked about salmon specifically. He does a good job on explaining why salmon, farmed or wild, is something that he’ll now go without. I know some other food writers who’ve given up tuna entirely, or who’ve chosen to steer clear of foie gras, but food is something we cover as reporters. There’s no ignorance-is-bliss here. We are often more aware of issues surrounding the food we eat than much of the general public. I understand that no other protein on our plate is as complex as fish, but I made the wrong decision.

I don’t know if Grescoe’s conversation will be heard by people who aren’t inherently interested in the topic in the first place. With food issues, there’s a lot of preaching to the choir. In this case, I heard Grescoe’s lament loud and clear, and will use it as a reminder to explain to Cal that fish can be slippery, and that next time? He's getting the chimichurri chicken instead.
Clare Leschin-Hoar

Image source: Feeding system on salmon farm, Salmon Farm Protest Group/Marine Photobank

You Got That Fish Where?


(
Welcome a new contributor to ChewsWise.com, food writer Clare Leschin-Hoar)


Sure, Sam talks plenty about what kind of fish we should be eating, and we’ve got our own case of the bluefin tuna blues, but not all the fish news is gloomy. Dan Ackman caught our attention when he tackled the job of pointing out primo spots for fishing in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens in a recent WSJ article.

Talk about angling for a view. Who knew New York Harbor was home to striped bass, bluefish, fluke and the occasional albacore tuna? Apparently, plenty of New Yorkers did. There are now nearly 120 fishing spots within the city’s five boroughs, and state officials say the fish caught there is safe for consumption too.
 
Avid fisherman and marine scientist David Conover of Stony Brook University keeps to his fishing grounds off Long Island but says encouraging urbanites to develop a connection to the ocean helps bring home the message of keeping our waters clean. But would he go so far as to eat something he caught off of Battery Park?  “Only on very rare occasions and only if its a migratory species that is just passing through and probably spent most of its life in the open ocean.”
 
It turns out, New Yorkers aren’t alone in their piscatorial passion. Plenty of states, like Kansas and Minnesota are luring residents to urban fishing programs. Here in Boston, our own harbor is hopping too. Fishing expert Pete Santini says it’s home to stripers, bluefish and cod, and most recently, he’s seeing once-depleted flounder stocks making a strong comeback here. 
 
With gas inching towards $5 a gallon, we bet more fishermen will be taking to the waters close to home this summer, which means it’s only a matter of time before this morphs into another lively Boston/New York rivalry.
 –Clare Leschin-Hoar
 

 

What Fish to Eat? An Expert Talks

Henry Lovejoy, a wholesaler of sustainable seafood at Ecofish, spoke with Gourmet's Barry Estabrook on making good sustainable seafood choices.

"If someone wants a blanket statement on what to eat, I say wild Alaskasalmon,” Lovejoy says—any species, including chinook, chum, coho, sockeye, king, red, and pink. “They are well managed, very high in Omega 3s, and very low in mercury and PCBs.”

That's the quick answer, but the article has a lot more information on great seafood as the summer grilling season shifts to high gear. We also did a previous post on seafood buying guides.

The Biggest Fish Market in the World

 

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If you enjoy fish, you might like this story I wrote, "In the Belly of Tsujiki," for Gourmet.com. We visited the market early in the morning and ended up buying fish to take back to my relatives in Tokyo.

Now I know my sustainable fish friends might have a problem with this but this is a problem with sustainability's place in the market right now: it's not available -- or recognizable -- in all places.

Back home, I largely avoid tuna -- because of toxicity issues and overfishing, but I made an exception here. I also know others would make different choices.

As many speakers at the sustainability conference this week at the Monterey Bay Aquarium said this week, sustainability is a process that begins with awareness. On that note, I hope to soon have another story on seafood sustainability in Japan -- which is quite surprising.

Here's a few more pictures from the market.

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Las Vegas’s Daily Diet of 60,000 Pounds of Shrimp

That figure comes from Rick Moonen, the chef at RM Seafood in Las Vegas who has a passion for sustainable fish. He mentioned that Las Vegas’s daily consumption of 60,000 pounds per day is more than the rest of the nation combined.

Where does that shrimp come from? Largely from farms in southeast Asia, which have a number of problems: the destruction of mangrove swamps where the farms are based, the application of pesticides and antibiotics in the fish farms that are banned in the U.S., the reliance of low-wage labor. His solution? He uses only wild caught US species.

This came out of a panel at the Cooking for Solutions conference at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which brings together about 60 journalists to learn about sustainable food. It’s one of the few conferences that gathers terrestrial and oceans experts in one forum and is flat-out one of the best conferences I’ve attended on these issues.

The day was opened by Gene Kahn, a founder of the organic food industry, who has since moved onto greener pastures at General Mills. As global sustainability officer, he set the theme of “continual improvement” -- that there is not one singular solution to sustainable food systems and that it demands incremental gains, not either/or approaches.

Kahn said he’s most interested in changing the mainstream since 1 percent change at General Mills is “revolutionary.” As a former organic food entrepreneur, he said he’s no longer interested in “selling food to yuppies” and that the mainstreaming of these values in everyday products represents a “democratization.”

Interestingly, he said the biggest risk to this entire movement is “greenwashing,” that is the practice of companies making claims that are so limited as to be functionally meaningless. The solution was to have transparent goals, processes and results. 

But back to shrimp, which along with tuna and salmon were the topics of the first panel.

The major issue with salmon is the destructive practices of farmed fish, both in pollution and the use of wild caught fish as feeder stocks. None on the four-person panel could endorse any farmed product. Indeed, the only positive farmed products mentioned were tilapia, trout, with a nod to Kona kampachi and barramundi. And of course, mollusks, such as mussels and oysters, which have been highly successful in farmed systems.

Tuna is one of the most widely eaten species, but the only population that won an endorsement from the panel was the pole caught albacore on the West Coast (low in mercury toxins, high in omega 3 fatty acids) and a few poll caught species off of Hawaii. The other major issue with tuna is that governmental norms over its harvest differ or are non-existant. Illegal fishing is also rampant.

“It’s a highly migratory species and requires international agreements that have not been forthcoming,” said Brad Ack of the Marine Stewardship Council. “The (consumer) market has not begun to drive that change, and that’s going to have the biggest influence.”

Pen-raised tuna (much of it in Australia and the Mediterranean) has been put forward as one solution, but Corey Peet of the Aquarium mentioned that these tuna require 25 pounds of feeder fish to create one pound of tuna - a horrendous ratio that is not sustainable. Furthermore, wild caught  juvenile fish are farmed in these pens, depleting wild stocks in which they might breed.

Paul Johnson, owner of the Monterey Seafood Market, said he expected some blue fin tuna populations to be extinct within the next three or four years. Whether he’s right or not is only a matter of degree.

As for salmon, the familiar advice to buy Alaskan wild salmon was widespread; species such as coho and sockeye will be more prevalent and cheaper than king salmon.

But Johnson said, “We are going to pay more for seafood if it’s sustainable.”

The solution: eat a smaller portion ... or different species.

Moonen said that smaller species are generally more sustainable - mackerel, sardines, trout - but that consumers have to learn how to cook them. To that aim, he recently published a cook book on this topic, Fish Without a Doubt, which we soon hope to review.

- Samuel Fromartz

Watching a Bluefin Tuna's Global Travels

This scientific group has been tagging bluefin tuna and tracking their movements, back and forth across the Pacific, clocking over 45,000 miles. Click on the map to see the actual movements over time, though why a bluefin feeding off the coast of California would travel to Japan and back - twice - is beyond me. Maybe they're globalists. (Nod to SeaNotes blog for pointing this out).

European Retailers Boycott Bluefin, Will US Chefs Follow?

In response to dramatic overfishing of bluefin tuna in the Mediterranean, a number of major European retailers took matters into their own hands and declared a boycott on selling the endangered fish, WWF said in a press release.

France's Auchan group, with a nearly 14 percent share of the retail fish trade, declared its boycott on December 28, noting that scientists had advised a 15,000 metric ton ceiling on annual catches, while the international tuna management body was allowing a 2008 quota of 29,500 tons.

Carrefour in Italy, Coop in both Italy and Switzerland, and ICA in Norway also stopped selling Mediterranean bluefin tuna.

"This year we have seen it all - fishing during the closed season, use of illegal spotting planes, massive over-quota catches, an international web of fraud to conceal the catches, fish laundering – the stock does not stand a chance under this onslaught and the failure of ICCAT contracting parties to implement the adopted management plan renders it devoid of content and of any meaningful conservation impact. The situation could not be more serious," said Marine Conservationist Sergi Tudela of WWF.

“It is the most scandalous case of fisheries mismanagement currently happening in the world and certainly one of the worst I have ever witnessed."

So will American chefs stand up as well and stop serving an endangered species?

What Fish Should I Eat? Get a Cell Phone Guide

With all the recent news on overfishing and toxicity in fish, it's easy to get the message that we shouldn't be eating fish. That isn't the case, since there are sustainable fisheries -- that is populations where the fishing is well-managed for the future -- that deserve support. Alaskan salmon, cod and halibut are often mentioned. But there are many others as well.

Many organizations offer wallet-sized cards on making smart seafood choices, but here are a list of web sites that I found especially helpful.

Monterey Bay Aquarium's seafood watch program has a wealth of information that is easy to search. They've also just issued their 2008 pocket guides of seafood choices, based upon where you live. Or better yet, link the browser on your cell phone to www.seafoodwatch.org to call up the guide in a restaurant or while shopping.

Blue Oceans Institute, founded by MacArthur Fellow and author Carl Safina, is very active in this area as well. It has a Guide to Ocean Friendly Seafood, with five ratings from green to red. But what I really like is their text-message service, fish phone, that immediately tells you about the fish you're ordering. Text 30644 with the message FISH and the name of the fish in question. "We’ll text you back with our assessment and better alternatives to fish with significant environmental concerns," they say. I tried it. It works. And it's very easy to use in the market or a restaurant.

Environmental Defense has an eco-friendly seafood selector, available on the web or in a pocket guide. ED has done a lot of good  work on toxicity, and the choices in their easy-to-read guide emphasize that point. Here's a link to their green choices, which include Alaskan salmon, farmed-raised mussels and oysters, trout, catfish (domestic),  tilapia (domestic) and yellow fin tuna. Also available in a pocket guide.

Finally, for kids, check out Kids Safe Seafood, which looks at these issues (especially toxicity), specifically for children.

The point is that there are good choices available for seafood. You just gotta do the legwork.

Mercury Rising in Tuna, But Will Concern Last?

Image source: New York Times

Marian Burros of the Times had a revealing piece today on tuna sushi, showing that restaurant and store samples had so much mercury that six pieces a week would be deemed a health risk by the EPA.

The story ranked as the most emailed item on the Times' web site, evidence of just how much health concerns prompt reaction from readers and eaters.

The question, though, is whether this concern will last.

When stories came out on the risk of PCBs in farmed salmon, sales dipped by about 20 percent for about six months. But Tim Fitzgerald, a scientist in the Oceans Program at Environmental Defense, told me in a phone call this morning that sales rebounded and "now they're higher than ever."

This parallels food scares in general. An immediate high-profile story will lead to a change in habits, but then memories will fade and habits return -- that is, if there are habits to return to. To gradually change consumer tastes over the long-term is more difficult, but doable, and takes work on the chef side. For if restaurants don't serve it, diners won't eat it.

In the case of tuna, Burros quoted a restaurateur and retailer who expressed surprise at the findings. (Reminds me of that line from Casablanca, "I'm shocked, shocked to find that gambling is going on in here!") If you are in the seafood business, you'd have to be deaf, dumb and blind to ignore the mercury warnings on tuna, especially in larger species like bluefin where mercury are known to accumulate.

I was also surprised that so many of the restaurants were actually serving bluefin tuna, a species that is so close to collapse (that is, disappearance) that eating it is akin to dining on an endangered species. There have been gobs of articles on the plight of the bluefin for years, and this illuminating piece from 60 Minutes this past weekend that is worth watching if you haven't seen it. But since this warning has clearly not yet struck a chord, chefs continue to turn a blind eye and serve the fish up. (Not to oversimplify, since some chefs and groups such as Chefs Collaborative do emphasize sustainable fish).

Now, I imagine, this series will alter menus, at least initially. Fearful of mercury poisoning, eaters will shy away from tuna and restaurants will have to avoid bluefin, unless they want to put warning signs on their menus. The upshot: maybe bluefin will now have a chance at rebounding, if restaurants switch to other more sustainable and lower toxicity species, such as yellow fin tuna.

But if chefs don't respond, diners will continue to get doses of mercury until the big tuna run out.

To see how restaurants and supermarkets fared in the actual tests, check out the Times' nifty graphic.

- Samuel Fromartz

Behind the Most Traded Animal Commodity - Fish

Fish from all over the world are on display at Brixton Market in London.
Image source and caption: New York Times

"There are no fish in the sea here anymore," says one Senegalese fisherman. Without a livelihood, he tried to immigrate to Europe, following a route that has claimed 6,000 lives, including his cousin's. He failed but will try again.

This is just one of the revelations that appear in a New York Times story on the disappearance of African fish, due to foreign fleets plying the waters without oversight. Europe, facing its own fisheries collapse, is importing its supply globally, aided by such companies such as "China National Fisheries Corporation, one of the largest suppliers of West African fish to Europe." In the second story in the series, the Times points out:

Fish is now the most traded animal commodity on the planet, with about 100 million tons of wild and farmed fish sold each year. Europe has suddenly become the world's largest market for fish, worth more than 14 billion euros, or about $22 billion a year. Europe's appetite has grown as its native fish stocks have shrunk so that Europe now needs to import 60 percent of fish sold in the region.

None of this is particularly new -- you can read Charles Clover's book The End of the Line, which documented the practices that led to the collapse of cod stocks in the North Sea and which also spent many pages on the free-for-all underway in Africa.  (I interviewed Clover, Environmental Editor of the London Telegraph, on Salon). But it is news on this side of the pond, where we see very little about the depletion of distant fisheries, such as those in Africa.

The impact of that decline is measured in attempts by idle African fisherman to immigrate to Europe, the  disappearance of subsistence fish protein for Africans, and the rising price of fish in London.

Prices have doubled and tripled in response to surging demand, scarcity and recent fishing quotas imposed by the European Union in a desperate effort to save native species. In London, a kilogram of lowly cod, the traditional ingredient of fish and chips, now costs up to £30, or close to $60, up from £6 four years ago.

It's doubtful that Europe will be able to control or manage this global fish trade responsibly, given its consistent inability in the Mediterranean of staving off the collapse of blue fin tuna. (That link, by the way is to Carl Safina's blog -- the MacArthur fellow who wrote an amazing narrative on the blue fin's plight in his book, Song for the Blue Ocean).

As for sustainable alternatives, a Times sidebar pointed to a fish and chips joint in London where the chef is sourcing all his stocks sustainably -- at a price. A portion costs 10 pounds (about $20).

What the series so far has not examined are the use (or misuse?) of sustainable fisheries. Clover, in his book, for example, revealed that McDonald's Filet-O-Fish sandwich is sourced from sustainable fisheries certified by the Marine Stewardship Council, such as Alaskan cod and pollack. (You wouldn't know it, since McDonald's does not pay the licensing fee to use the MSC certification seal on its meals).

Is this practice still underway and does it extend to Europe as well?  I'd like to know...

- Samuel Fromartz