ChewsWise Blog

ChewsWise Blog

A Kenyan View of 'Food Miles'

The London Guardian has a valuable piece on the way the "food miles" debate plays out in the Third World, among Kenyan farmers who are growing organic food for British consumers. They object to a proposal by the UK's Soil Association (SA), the country's main certification body, to limit or ban imported organic food.

Starting witha debate in London tomorrow, the SA will hear views on the issue until September, when it may decide to introduce a limited or total ban. A ban would mean labelling air-freighted products so that they effectively lost their organic status due to their 'food miles'. Such a move would destroy the livelihoods of tens of thousands of smallholders across Africa in one of the continent's most enterprising export industries, forcing them back into poverty and subsistence farming.

'A ban on our export market will be death for us,' says Charles Kimani, who has put his children through school and college from the profits made from his fruit and vegetables on just seven acres of land.

The Limits of Local

I had a spirited discussion on Seattle's NPR affiliate, KUOW, on the local v. organic debate, but it wasn't much of a debate, since the highest standard everyone seemed to prefer was local AND organic. The chef and author Deborah Madison had a thoughtful piece on Culinate reaching the same conclusion.

The point I tried to make is that local alone is not sufficient. Buying within a certain radius of one's house could mean purchasing from Smithfield Farm if you're in North Carolina, and that might not be what locavores have in mind.

The problem with local is that distance gets the major emphasis, rather than environmental impact, the way the food is produced, or the myriad other issues to consider in reaching a higher food standard. Organic has been criticized because it's all about the method (rather than distance or social justice), but I expect local too will find itself facing similar criticisms. Take note that among the most active opponents to chemical and intensive animal farming are neighbors who live nearby the fields and manure ponds. They don't want this in their backyard, yet it's from a local farm. ...Oh wait, that's not what you mean by local. And Wal-Mart wasn't what organic was supposed to be either.

- Samuel Fromartz